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Today's Mecha Kit Purchases


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#16 DecoRs

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 03:21 PM

View PostAmaterasu, on Dec 17 2007, 03:17 PM, said:

What if I put a red bow around my f-ing wang?

ROFLCOPTER has landed, baby!

Make sure the smallest bow you could find is not too big for you. :lol:  :lol:

#17 Amaterasu

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 03:27 PM

View PostDecoRs, on Dec 17 2007, 06:21 PM, said:

View PostAmaterasu, on Dec 17 2007, 03:17 PM, said:

What if I put a red bow around my f-ing wang?

ROFLCOPTER has landed, baby!

Make sure the smallest bow you could find is not too big for you. :lol:  :lol:

LOL.   That, and the fact that I'm Chinese.  A bigger bow would .... compromise me.

ROFLMAO.

Looking for:



MG GP 01 : Face / Head


#18 DecoRs

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Posted 18 December 2007 - 07:50 PM

Just received the VF-4 today :) .

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#19 Michael

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Posted 18 December 2007 - 10:34 PM

WOW!! What scale is that? 1/72? Where did you get it? Is there a plastic kit of it? :)

#20 DecoRs

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Posted 18 December 2007 - 11:59 PM

View PostMichael, on Dec 18 2007, 10:34 PM, said:

WOW!! What scale is that? 1/72? Where did you get it? Is there a plastic kit of it? :)

Yep, it's a 1/72. I purchased it from Valk009 over at MacrossWorld.

#21 Michael

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 02:05 AM

They actually sell stuff there? :blink:

I thought they were just a site for Macross Fans...

Anyway thanks for the heads up!! :D

#22 ledmirageb4

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 10:44 AM

How much does it run for . Looks pretty good kit. Whats the quality on the kit.

View PostDecoRs, on Dec 18 2007, 11:59 PM, said:

View PostMichael, on Dec 18 2007, 10:34 PM, said:

WOW!! What scale is that? 1/72? Where did you get it? Is there a plastic kit of it? :)

Yep, it's a 1/72. I purchased it from Valk009 over at MacrossWorld.


#23 DecoRs

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 12:21 PM

View Postledmirageb4, on Dec 19 2007, 10:44 AM, said:

How much does it run for . Looks pretty good kit. Whats the quality on the kit.

The price for the kit is $75 including shipping. The quality is not that great, as it seemed obvious to me that I got one of the later castings. The panel lines need clean up work due to excess resin filling up some of the lines. It's an easy fix with a scriber or mini saw. The other problem is thinness on some of the wing bits/flaps. I'm thinking I may have to rebuild some of those using plastic sheets.

#24 Xenoex

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 03:46 PM

Decors, in ur opinion, what would be the best tool for rescribing lines stuffed up by excess resin?  I have experimented with several tools, and found that Tamiya scriber is only good for doing shallow lines.  Once I start going deeper,  it tends to scribe too widely.  I found the tritool to be more effective in maintaining a narrow groove if I want to scribe deeply.  I also use the normal hobbyknife to remove most residue first, then rescribe later, otherwise the residue tends to force the scriber (or tritool) sideways and end up scratching the nearby surface.    

I am still practising doing curved lines, tritool seems to be better than scriber at curves too.  I guess this sort of thing is unavoidable when we work on resin recasts alot  :(   Might seem like a waste of time to some people, but I think it will really pay off once you've finished painting and take closeup pics.
EX-S is Gundam. The rest is just details.

#25 DecoRs

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 04:41 PM

View PostXenoex, on Dec 19 2007, 03:46 PM, said:

Decors, in ur opinion, what would be the best tool for rescribing lines stuffed up by excess resin?  I have experimented with several tools, and found that Tamiya scriber is only good for doing shallow lines.  Once I start going deeper,  it tends to scribe too widely.  I found the tritool to be more effective in maintaining a narrow groove if I want to scribe deeply.  I also use the normal hobbyknife to remove most residue first, then rescribe later, otherwise the residue tends to force the scriber (or tritool) sideways and end up scratching the nearby surface.    

I am still practising doing curved lines, tritool seems to be better than scriber at curves too.  I guess this sort of thing is unavoidable when we work on resin recasts alot  :(   Might seem like a waste of time to some people, but I think it will really pay off once you've finished painting and take closeup pics.

I have various scribing/engraving tools, but the one I use most is still the Modeling Saw Set from Hasegawa. For me, they are small and easier to handle, which should help to reduce "accidents".

If I need bigger/wider lines(rarely), I'd use the Mini Razor Saw from Tamiya, which has bigger and wider teeth.

I started to rescribe the lines on the VF-4 by using the Tritool. I figure I will end up rescribing all the lines on this kit.

Here's the before and after.

Right side-  Before
Posted Image

Left side - After
Posted Image

#26 Xenoex

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Posted 19 December 2007 - 05:39 PM

Good job!  It looks significantly cleaner and much better after the rescribing.
EX-S is Gundam. The rest is just details.

#27 electric_indigo

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 04:10 AM

I hate it when they do panel lines so deep they can't even get the silicone in there properly. Be careful with the wash here, especially on a white paintjob, it looks overdone before you even put paint in there.

-i-
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#28 DecoRs

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 04:24 AM

View Postelectric_indigo, on Dec 20 2007, 04:10 AM, said:

I hate it when they do panel lines so deep they can't even get the silicone in there properly. Be careful with the wash here, especially on a white paintjob, it looks overdone before you even put paint in there.

-i-

I think I should be able to fix the lines, if they are indeed too deep when the times comes to paint it. You know, I was thinking, they made have just overdone it with the number of panel lines on this kit. I actually prefer the cleaner look of the Club-M kit. Well, Club-M's VF-4 is better looking overall, IMO. It sucks that it's so difficult to find one...

#29 electric_indigo

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 02:01 PM

Same here. The Club-M is more elegant, maybe this one here is better for people who are more rooted in traditional aircraft modeling. Still I think the panel lines are too bold. But I'm really spoiled by the quality of the surface engravings of my Banshee kit (laser?), shows that you can have Hase quality details in resin.

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Posted Image

#30 Xenoex

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Posted 20 December 2007 - 02:14 PM

View Postelectric_indigo, on Dec 21 2007, 08:01 AM, said:

Same here. The Club-M is more elegant, maybe this one here is better for people who are more rooted in traditional aircraft modeling. Still I think the panel lines are too bold. But I'm really spoiled by the quality of the surface engravings of my Banshee kit (laser?), shows that you can have Hase quality details in resin.

Man...those lines are unbelievable.......straight, even, consistent and crisp.... :jawdrop:
EX-S is Gundam. The rest is just details.




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