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The putty/filler review topic


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#31 ssgtdude

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Posted 20 September 2006 - 06:36 PM

Was at home depot today looking for a two part epoxy.  I was looking for a ribbon putty, but ended up only finding a product called Harvey's Plumbers putty.  For a 4 oz tube it was only $4.00 so I figured what the hell and picked up one.  Came home and decided to try it out.  After cutting off a small slice I see that it is a two part putty with the two parts with one part wrapped around the second.

Evaluation...

The putty mixes nice and smooth with very little tackyness.  It rolls out nice and smooth and cuts easily.
It is a grey color and no granulation in it's consistancy.  I used it to repair a couple parts of the leggins on Rozana and it set in 20 minutes.  It was a little rubbery after 30 minutes, but still sandable.  With in an hours time it was hard.

Down side.
after mixing the compound only has a two to five minute work life.

Up side
Would be great in bulking up scratch builds and small amounts for minor or major repairs and pin holes providing you can do the work within the compounds work life.


edit  Well it has been about 24 hours.  the putty sands down fairly easily.  Actually, I am rather impressed with the stuff for both a filler and its ease of use in making corrections.  

For those who have the Rozarna, the repair I had to make was on each of the leggins that she wears.  the top edge that hides the seam where the leg joins the upper leg was damaged.  Did not see and flakes of resin in the bag so I know it did not occur during shipping, or packaging.  I figure that it occured during modling since it is a rather thin area to begin with.  

I'd give this product two snaps and a twist.   B+

#32 gundammit

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Posted 23 September 2006 - 01:25 AM

i bought some automotive filler bondo the other day. it comes with a hardener cream. how much hardener do you guys usually use? i want to have enough "workable time" with the putty. maybe about 30 min.


thanks!

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Posted 25 September 2006 - 07:36 PM

restore

#34 davez82

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 11:26 PM

ok , i was working on my "GUNDAM"... and i had a seam , u know those annoying seams that come up despite the fact that you did glue mash the pieces together. I was desperate, i slapped on surfacer 500 with my brush, 1 thick stroke. Left to dry maybe 2 -3 hours.  Sanded pretty much till i saw no more mr surfacer 500, i thought crap theres nothing there this cant possibly work. I sprayed on surfacer 1000, guess what , that microscopic seam was gone. The HUGE downside to this is,... if you paint in lacquer, you cant strip the paint later or else youll stream the seam with it, at least i think.

#35 GameraBaenre

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Posted 28 September 2006 - 11:37 PM

Quote

i slapped on surfacer 500 with my brush, 1 thick stroke. Left to dry maybe 2 -3 hours. Sanded pretty much till i saw no more mr surfacer 500, i thought crap theres nothing there this cant possibly work. I sprayed on surfacer 1000, guess what , that microscopic seam was gone.

Hmm... that sounds familiar  :P   But why would you want to strip the paint?  Planning on reworking the kit in the future?  Or if the paint colors don't look right?  You can always spray acrylics or enamels and stripping that shouldn't remove the mr surfacer.

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#36 davez82

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 08:40 AM

 GameraBaenre, on Sep 29 2006, 05:37 PM, said:

Quote

i slapped on surfacer 500 with my brush, 1 thick stroke. Left to dry maybe 2 -3 hours. Sanded pretty much till i saw no more mr surfacer 500, i thought crap theres nothing there this cant possibly work. I sprayed on surfacer 1000, guess what , that microscopic seam was gone.

Hmm... that sounds familiar  :P   But why would you want to strip the paint?  Planning on reworking the kit in the future?  Or if the paint colors don't look right?  You can always spray acrylics or enamels and stripping that shouldn't remove the mr surfacer.

well its just a scenario, also lets say u dont like the color, or u painted the peice wrong, well i would be too lazy to do a strip anyways but im sure it would come up. Actuallly when u think about it a lot of basic putties are lacquer based.

#37 GameraBaenre

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Posted 29 September 2006 - 08:56 AM

 davez82, on Sep 29 2006, 09:40 AM, said:

well its just a scenario, also lets say u dont like the color, or u painted the peice wrong, well i would be too lazy to do a strip anyways but im sure it would come up. Actuallly when u think about it a lot of basic putties are lacquer based.

Makes sense.  For picking colors I usually have a spare piece of plastic that I have lying around and run several tests on that.  Example: Posted Image
Had to run tests to see which gold/yellow worked best.

The only times I've had to strip the paint was when I made a mistake on a resin piece and normally I have pin holes and stuff filled with epoxy putty.  Once cured, the epoxy putty didn't really get much effect from being dipped in a vat of lacquer thinner I was using to strip paint.  Of course I had to reprime the piece and everything, so yeah, lacquer thinner will eat away the Mr Surfacer.  I guess it comes down to the choices you make for filling seams, the different putty options and whatnot.

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#38 davez82

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 11:58 AM

bought a bottle of that mr dissolved putty , theres a quick recap of it on codyscoop.com , i think this stuff is great for gundam seam lines. The only problem with it is, it dries  kind of clear, and the clear part drys pretty damn hard. As described in codys page, if u store the bottle upside down, u dotn need to mix it the next time u use it,i tried this and it worked great, definately a quick fix putty, no mixing no nothing, just open and apply with toothpick or whatever over the seam line.

#39 dropout12

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 08:25 PM

hey i know this is a review section, but i have a question- iam trying to get a piece from the v2 gundam on to the pg wzc frame and since it dosnt fit (oviously) can i put putty in the piece and then attach it to the frame, and will it make a mold of the frame so i can put it on and take it off when i want? someone help, thanks.

#40 cwmodels

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 05:10 PM

Yes, you can do that but you must use a 2 part epoxy putty. And make sure you put some sort of mold release (like Vaseline) on the piece you will be attaching it to so you can remove it after the epoxy hardens.
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#41 dropout12

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 01:55 PM

ok thanks, i have squadron white putty. will that do or do i have to get a different kind of putty?

#42 cwmodels

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 11:14 PM

NO! Squadron white putty is NO GOOD.

You must use ones that says EPOXY PUTTY on it.
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#43 Odisea

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Posted 05 March 2007 - 10:48 AM

 cwmodels, on Nov 14 2006, 01:14 AM, said:

NO! Squadron white putty is NO GOOD.

You must use ones that says EPOXY PUTTY on it.

You mean Squadron white is no good at all? or just for large amounts? I just bought a tube for experimenting, so reading the last posts there is a mention to use acetone, I'll try regular thinner or alcohol, but saying that is a bad stuff made me worry about.  :blink:

#44 Pooptron

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Posted 04 April 2007 - 06:07 PM

I am about ready to start experimenting with ssp-hg.  does anyone know of any tutorials using this product (esp. for scratch building).  i would like to see different ways this putty can be used, thanks.

#45 Sacred Blade Deimos

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 09:27 AM

 cwmodels, on Nov 14 2006, 01:14 AM, said:

NO! Squadron white putty is NO GOOD.

You must use ones that says EPOXY PUTTY on it.

GRAAAHHH!  :mecry:

I just picked some up the other day; I wish I'd read this thread first! :unsure:

So, what IS Squadron White good for, anyway (if anything)?




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