Krylon vs rustoleum spray painting.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 01:59 AM
I might give spray painting a try and bought a few of the classic gundam colors for starters. I got red/blue/yellow Rustoleum. I'll link the product:
1. I tried them on the testers and the results were great instantly and then tried them home as well and same results. But I'm just wondering which of the 2 is better Krylon or rustoleum for gundam plastic models?
2. One more question: do I spray paint a piece then wait for it to dry etc and after do the panel lining then a top coat?
3. Another question: Can you spray paint a gloss blue like the product I bought and after its dry use a FLAT top coat? Will it make the gloss paint dull / flat?
Thank you! Excuse my noobness. Very new to everything.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 05:32 AM
1.) It all comes down to preference. As long as you like how it looks (and, more importantly, you can get your hands on it), then it's the one you should use.
2.) I'm pretty sure you asked a similar question in another thread (or if not, I gave a similar answer as I'm going to give here, or if not that, then I answered someone else's question with a similar response). The "typical" steps are:
- gloss clear coat
- panel line/decal
- flat top coat
The reason for the gloss coat between painting and panel lining is (without going into the fine details) that the gloss allows the panel ink to more easily flow through the grooves and limits runoff and smudging. This is assuming you're using a panel wash (ie applying the paint via brush or toothpick and letting it run along the length of the line), but I would think it also helps if you're using a Gundam marker.
3.) Yes, it'll make the gloss paint flat. You can use a gloss clear coat to regain the mirror shine.
Posted 18 March 2012 - 09:09 AM
Posted 18 March 2012 - 05:46 PM
I want to pain this guy next: The Guntank.
I want to start spray painting the blue parts with Rustoleum maybe with the "Navy" color. http://rustoleum.com...ct.asp?pid=24 so my question is:
1. Since the "Navy" blue matches the Guntank's color. Can I just spray it onto the blue pieces? or do I have to prime it still? If so what primer should I use? would someone link me the rustoleum primer IF thats the case.
2. I bought 2 Krylon's Clear Gloss/Dull spray cans. But 1 of them doesn't have the ball/shaker/mixer whatever is inside these cans. The flat can has it but the gloss doesn't. It works but it puzzles me if I should return it and get a can in good working order? ?
3. I'm getting the Rustoleum color spray cans. Does it matter if I have the Krylon topcoats and not a matching brand? Same thing I'm guessing just different brand?
4. For the Cannons on the Guntank I had an idea of spray painting them with something "Metallic" like a Metallic Silver or even a rusty silver if that even exists.. would that work on Plastic? give them a cannon metallic shiny look. I've seen a few metallic cans when I got my basic colors.
thank you guys!
Edited by Grendizer, 18 March 2012 - 05:59 PM.
Posted 19 March 2012 - 02:18 AM
- It allows for easier, more even paint coverage
- It helps you to make out surface imperfections, such as seam lines that haven't been properly smoothed down
- It also helps fill in smaller imperfections, such as scratches from sanding
- The color of a primer and/or lack of one to begin with affects how the paint on top of it looks. White primer tends to make the paint above it brighter; gray makes it more subdued; black primer makes the paint pretty dark; and so on.
2.) Try shaking it more vigorously than you might think necessary. Sometimes it's just finnicky. If it really doesn't work, then yes, return it for a new one.
3.) The brand doesn't matter too much. What does matter is the chemical composition of the primer/paint/top coat. They typically come in lacquer/enamel/acrylic varieties, and the wrong paint on top of a primer can actually eat away at the primer. Same goes for wrong clear coat on top of paint, wrong panel line paint on top of clear coat, etc. etc.
4.) That will work just fine on plastic.
Hope that helps!
Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:08 AM
Posted 23 March 2012 - 10:26 PM
Well After kajn mentioned the kinds of paints. I looked up which is which. Rustoleum is enamel and Krylon is acrylic; which is a water based paint, no wonder I tried it at Walmart and it was very watery. I didn't shake it enough though which is prob why it came out like that. Read those dry faster but after trying Enamel I think I like it better. The bad thing is the fumes and smell but I'll cope with it in a well ventilated area with one of those masks.
Kajn you mentioned that some paints don't get along well due to the chemicals. I have another question:
1. I have ename paint (rustoleum) and they ONLY have enamel gloss coat no dull or satin. So I went for Krylon which has both and I think semi as well.
My question is. Will Krylon (acrylic) gloss/dull top coat get along on enamel paint ?
Thank you again!
Posted 25 March 2012 - 02:37 AM
Posted 25 March 2012 - 02:56 PM
Anyone used this kind of top coat?
And they have the Painters Touch in a 2X edition: This edition got Clear Satin too.
1901830 - Gloss Clear
1902830 - Matte Clear
224420 - Semi-Gloss Clear
Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X: I think this is thicker paint which is why is a 2x so it could actually mess with panel lines and details ?
COLOR: 249117 - Gloss Clear
COLOR: 249859 - Semi-Gloss Clear
COLOR: 249087 - Matte Clear
COLOR: 249845 - Satin Clear
Any thoughts on these 2 products? Any of you used it before on Gunplas?
Edited by Grendizer, 25 March 2012 - 03:03 PM.
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:10 AM
So here's what happened...
The Clear Matte did not react well with certain colors. ALL the sprays I used bond to plastic, but for some reason certain colors would reject the Clear Matte topcoat. I was using a tan color called "Fossil". With the Clear Matte on top, everything immediately started cracking and peeling. PISSED OFF. Had to sand. Waterslide decals gone. Damn it. WTF?
I was also using a color called "Green Apple" on top of my red pieces. Every single time I would top coat it, the color would literally melt away. Red would come back through and my green would turn into a brown. Grrrrr... Had to sorta strip with Non-Acetone nail polish, soap and scrub, sand and try again. The next time I even primed and then put the Green Apple on. Tested with the Clear Gloss and it happened AGAIN. Shit. Stripped again, sand, repeat.... used Testors Dullcote Flat. No problem.
For those colors that did accept the Clear Matte (I ended up using Flat Black instead of Green Apple), the surface finish is powdery for lack of better description. Someone else here said "grainy". Honestly, everything looks like it's faux-leather texture. It's weird. I'm not down with it at all.
So, moral to the story.... sometimes you get what you pay for. I will NEVER, EVER use another top coat than Mr. TopCoat Flat. It's worth the money in the end. The shit make models look like statues. It just pulls everything together so much more nicely. Paint with Rustoleum, fine. I can actually recommend it. But DO NOT top coat with it. Spend the money and get Mr. TopCoat Flat.
Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:10 AM
Edited by BecomingRobot, 15 April 2012 - 07:11 AM.
Posted 21 April 2012 - 06:43 PM
thanks so much for your input and dang i'm very sorry about your problems. I would have gotten the biggest headache ever. Well since nobody ever answered my question about painters touch I went with my instincts and kept my Krylon Flat/gloss top-coat.
The results were excellent. I couldn't have asked for more than what it provided me. I used the Rutoleum spray cans the typical you'll find at walmart and home depot. The Stops Rust brand. My results were flawless with Krylon acrylic top coat. You should try those and they dry fast and I never had any run or any issue. It's such a perfect top coat.
I'll post my finished Guntank soon! and link it here so you can see the results.
Posted 23 April 2012 - 08:47 AM
One of the consensus I generally get is to stick with your paint. Especially with clear coats.
Of the things you can spray, Clear coats, especially in cans can be temperamental and that's a general principle with any brand.
Most of what I read says that it is best to know your clear coat and stick with it as there are various differences between brands you'll never truly understand how one would specific react unless you use it a lot.
Temperate, dry times, under coat, distance, how many coats, etc, all of these things can have a potential effect on how your
project will turn out. The only way you will be able to learn is by experiment / trial and error.
As a general rattle can tip,
-try not to spray in humid weather. Ever.
-Shake Shake Shake
-Warm your cans (soak the bottle of the cans with luke-warm/warm water! NOT BOILING OR RISK OF EXPLOSION, before spray)
-Multiple coats in one directional stroke, never heavy!
Hope that helps!
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