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I'm just starting to model and don't know what is the best paint, primer,sandpaper, and putty to use on my models.
paint, primer, putty,sandpaper recommendations help
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#2
telemarq 
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Posted 22 September 2004 - 03:07 AM
The best supplies to use are the ones that work the best for you. This takes trial and error. However, here's some that are good to start with. I like Model Masters paints. Its your choice, enamel or acrylic, but acrylics are easier to clean up. Tamiya paints are good also. Everyone has a different preference in putties. I use either Tamiya basic or Squadron gray. I use K & S Flex-I-Grit sandpaper. It comes in a five sheet package of different grits, coarse to fine. Krylon Primer is pretty good to start with and is available at most any hardware store or Wal-Mart.
As you advance, you will find that different products do different things. You will settle with the products that work best for the way you work.
As you advance, you will find that different products do different things. You will settle with the products that work best for the way you work.
#3
baxojayz
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Posted 22 September 2004 - 08:28 AM
Welcome to the board and the hobby!
I agree with Marq. This hobby is all about the learning curve, and what works for you.
With that in mind, I'll tell you some of the stuff that works for me.
Sanding. I like to go to evey store and buy all the different brands of emery boards. Yup. For fingernails. Different ones have different grits, so you can get them from extra coarse to extra fine depending on the brand. When you buy a pack, they turn out pretty cheap. It's pretty worthwhile. While you're in that aisle, also check out the buffing blocks. They are all fine. They smooth stuff out nicely. When it comes to sandpaper, go to the auto parts place and try an assortment of wet and dry sandpaper. It's black. They come in many grits, you'll find what you need, guaranteed.
Putty: You can get started easily with auto body glazes. That's what I use. In a tube, Usually they are red. They are the same as the hobby putties, just cheaper. You can also experiment with wood filler, plumber's epoxy, etc for bigger gaps. You'll see in the variuous threads that a lot of people use a lot of different stuff.
Paints. I like the craft store ones now. That's Folk Art and Apple Barrel. I haven't tried Ceramcoat, but I hear it's great too. They just require a little attention with thinners and retarders, but still worth the price. You can try Tamiya, Gunze, Citadel, etc, but they cost a lot more.
Primer: I like Krylon's white primer. White is a good base especially when you're painting bright colors later.
I agree with Marq. This hobby is all about the learning curve, and what works for you.
With that in mind, I'll tell you some of the stuff that works for me.
Sanding. I like to go to evey store and buy all the different brands of emery boards. Yup. For fingernails. Different ones have different grits, so you can get them from extra coarse to extra fine depending on the brand. When you buy a pack, they turn out pretty cheap. It's pretty worthwhile. While you're in that aisle, also check out the buffing blocks. They are all fine. They smooth stuff out nicely. When it comes to sandpaper, go to the auto parts place and try an assortment of wet and dry sandpaper. It's black. They come in many grits, you'll find what you need, guaranteed.
Putty: You can get started easily with auto body glazes. That's what I use. In a tube, Usually they are red. They are the same as the hobby putties, just cheaper. You can also experiment with wood filler, plumber's epoxy, etc for bigger gaps. You'll see in the variuous threads that a lot of people use a lot of different stuff.
Paints. I like the craft store ones now. That's Folk Art and Apple Barrel. I haven't tried Ceramcoat, but I hear it's great too. They just require a little attention with thinners and retarders, but still worth the price. You can try Tamiya, Gunze, Citadel, etc, but they cost a lot more.
Primer: I like Krylon's white primer. White is a good base especially when you're painting bright colors later.
~Bob
* All a man can do is act with a spirit of rightness and then he need fear no one, not even himself. -Chiun, Master of Sinanju
* That's the biz sweetheart! -Remo Williams
* If you strike me down, I shall become more powerful than you could possibly imagine. -Obi Wan Kenobi
* Life is very long. Up and down must. -Simon Fung
* All a man can do is act with a spirit of rightness and then he need fear no one, not even himself. -Chiun, Master of Sinanju
* That's the biz sweetheart! -Remo Williams
* If you strike me down, I shall become more powerful than you could possibly imagine. -Obi Wan Kenobi
* Life is very long. Up and down must. -Simon Fung
#4 Guest_CC_sakura_*
Posted 22 September 2004 - 10:33 AM
Hello and WELCOME to the forum!!
I am happy that you are into modeling!!
as for my tools. I use Anita's All Purpose Acrylic for paint, Painter's Touch Sandable Primer, Sponge Sandpaper 3M, Tamiya Basic/Squadron Grey.
I find those to be best for me.
I am happy that you are into modeling!!
as for my tools. I use Anita's All Purpose Acrylic for paint, Painter's Touch Sandable Primer, Sponge Sandpaper 3M, Tamiya Basic/Squadron Grey.
I find those to be best for me.
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#5
EVAyanami
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Posted 22 September 2004 - 11:03 AM
As someone who recently started figure modeling I fell your pain Sintenalk. For putty, I like tamiya. Their polyester and quick type putties are good. I have used citadel primer and painters touch, both in white. They are good, but I am going to pick up some krylon in a few days. As far as paint goes, I have used Tamiya, good both through an air brush and by hand 
Citadel which hand paints very well. And my new favorite Delta Creamcoat, whish I am afraid to shoot through an air brush(although I hear it is ok to do.)
The one thing I don't know, although you didn't ask is a good clear coat. I used painters touch on all of my mechs and my first 2 figures and a third which gets its coat in about 10 minutes.
Good luck!
Citadel which hand paints very well. And my new favorite Delta Creamcoat, whish I am afraid to shoot through an air brush(although I hear it is ok to do.) The one thing I don't know, although you didn't ask is a good clear coat. I used painters touch on all of my mechs and my first 2 figures and a third which gets its coat in about 10 minutes.
Good luck!
#6
Lumraptor
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Posted 25 September 2004 - 12:49 PM
Paint: Gunze Mr.Color (lacquer) This a paint made for the airbrush. It sprays on very thin and has a fine grain. It's very scratch resistent. *must be thinned with Gunze Mr.Color Thinner*
Testors Model Master and Tamiya enamel paints (oil based) These types of paint can be applied on top of lacquer based paint and can be wiped off with mineral spirits if a correction needs to be made.
Primer: Gunze Mr.Resin Primer Sufacer-applied with an airbrush.
Gunze Mr.Base White 1000 - applied with airbrush.
Sandpaper:3M 360 and 400 grit Wet-Dry paper. This paper looks grey in color. Use with water. Water lets the particles wash out between the grit of the sand paper making the paper cut better, last longer, provide a better finish and keeps the dust down so you are not breathing it.
Putty: Mori Mori polyester putty. This is a 2-part reactive putty with a small tube of hardener. Not a putty for people with sensative noses. Cured, it has fantastic sanding an strength properties.
Testors Red putty: I suspect this is the same as the red glazing putty Baxojays mentioned. I use this putty to fill pinholes and that is about it. It's a very soft putty and shrinks when it dries. Smear it on surfaces where you suspect pinholes are let dry for 1 minute and wipe off. Let dry for 20 miutes and repeat.
Thins with acetone.
Testors Model Master and Tamiya enamel paints (oil based) These types of paint can be applied on top of lacquer based paint and can be wiped off with mineral spirits if a correction needs to be made.
Primer: Gunze Mr.Resin Primer Sufacer-applied with an airbrush.
Gunze Mr.Base White 1000 - applied with airbrush.
Sandpaper:3M 360 and 400 grit Wet-Dry paper. This paper looks grey in color. Use with water. Water lets the particles wash out between the grit of the sand paper making the paper cut better, last longer, provide a better finish and keeps the dust down so you are not breathing it.
Putty: Mori Mori polyester putty. This is a 2-part reactive putty with a small tube of hardener. Not a putty for people with sensative noses. Cured, it has fantastic sanding an strength properties.
Testors Red putty: I suspect this is the same as the red glazing putty Baxojays mentioned. I use this putty to fill pinholes and that is about it. It's a very soft putty and shrinks when it dries. Smear it on surfaces where you suspect pinholes are let dry for 1 minute and wipe off. Let dry for 20 miutes and repeat.
Thins with acetone.
#7
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Posted 25 September 2004 - 03:10 PM
paint -
Buy some inexpensive artist acrylics and oils. Also, buy a few hobby and modeling water-based paints for variety.
It's also important to purchase a good base white acrylic and a fleshtone for figure modeling. You could go the route of buying a solvent-based base white like Mr. Base White from HLJ or some other approach. For a fleshtone, find some colors that when mixed correctly, come out to a good basic anime fleshtone. Adjust from there.
primer -
I like Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer as my first coat. It seems to etch the resin the best. From there, I use Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Surfacer 1000 for filling and buildup. They both sand well and are a medium/light grey. This leaves you needing only a thinner coat of base white.
putty -
This is where things get personal. Personal taste, that is. I like many different types of putty, but there are three main reasons to putty something.
For hole filling, I use Mr. Dissolved Putty. It's very easy to use and gets rid of those pesky pinholes fast!
As for parts buildup, you can't beat Magic Sculp. It is a two part putty that is mixed in equal parts and produces a cured, hard, surface that meets or exceeds the smooth surface of urethane resin without needing to heat cure it like polymer clays. That means you can add pin or armiture support to an existing resin part and add the Magic Sculp as needed and overnight, you've got a customized or repaired piece ready to use. It's just great stuff!
sandpaper -
The only thing I can advise for sanding is that you discover which sanding and machining materials work best for YOU. I like sponge backed sanding pads, sanding rope, needle files, chisels, and so on. There are numerous choices, so don't get rattled. Just spend your money wisely.
Buy some inexpensive artist acrylics and oils. Also, buy a few hobby and modeling water-based paints for variety.
It's also important to purchase a good base white acrylic and a fleshtone for figure modeling. You could go the route of buying a solvent-based base white like Mr. Base White from HLJ or some other approach. For a fleshtone, find some colors that when mixed correctly, come out to a good basic anime fleshtone. Adjust from there.
primer -
I like Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer as my first coat. It seems to etch the resin the best. From there, I use Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Surfacer 1000 for filling and buildup. They both sand well and are a medium/light grey. This leaves you needing only a thinner coat of base white.
putty -
This is where things get personal. Personal taste, that is. I like many different types of putty, but there are three main reasons to putty something.
- To fill gaps
- To fill holes
- To build up parts
For hole filling, I use Mr. Dissolved Putty. It's very easy to use and gets rid of those pesky pinholes fast!
As for parts buildup, you can't beat Magic Sculp. It is a two part putty that is mixed in equal parts and produces a cured, hard, surface that meets or exceeds the smooth surface of urethane resin without needing to heat cure it like polymer clays. That means you can add pin or armiture support to an existing resin part and add the Magic Sculp as needed and overnight, you've got a customized or repaired piece ready to use. It's just great stuff!
sandpaper -
The only thing I can advise for sanding is that you discover which sanding and machining materials work best for YOU. I like sponge backed sanding pads, sanding rope, needle files, chisels, and so on. There are numerous choices, so don't get rattled. Just spend your money wisely.
#8
TMBounty_Hunter
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Posted 25 September 2004 - 04:00 PM
Welcome to the boards sintenalk!
well, i started out not too long ago and just used what was available to me out of the stuff i heard about on this forum.
paint - Gunze Aqueous Hobby Color. thined with water and easy for handbrushing, i love em
primer - Tamiya white. works good, but expensive, im looking for a cheaper alternative, probobly gonna try Krylon next.
putty - Tamiya basic type, tamiya Quick type epoxy, and Milliput standard(i love the milliput stuff, very nice, especially the "smoothed with water" part
sandpaper - found some flex-i-grit at a local store, been using it, works but doesnt last too long
well, i started out not too long ago and just used what was available to me out of the stuff i heard about on this forum.
paint - Gunze Aqueous Hobby Color. thined with water and easy for handbrushing, i love em
primer - Tamiya white. works good, but expensive, im looking for a cheaper alternative, probobly gonna try Krylon next.
putty - Tamiya basic type, tamiya Quick type epoxy, and Milliput standard(i love the milliput stuff, very nice, especially the "smoothed with water" part
sandpaper - found some flex-i-grit at a local store, been using it, works but doesnt last too long
#10
TMBounty_Hunter
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Posted 26 September 2004 - 12:10 PM
sintenalk, on Sep 26 2004, 03:18 PM, said:
hi i was wondering if using sandpaper 1000-2000 is alright.
i dont know for sure, but id say that grate is only good for finishing. just for regular prepwork, i use 200-400, works great for me, never had the need to go past 600
but hey, im a newbie
#11
redrage
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Posted 26 September 2004 - 12:32 PM
sintenalk, on Sep 26 2004, 02:18 PM, said:
hi i was wondering if using sandpaper 1000-2000 is alright.
Welcome to the board!
I agree with TMB. I use 1000 - 12000 but only for very limited applications; primarilly finishing.
I like to use manicurist's boards in all grits (black, blue, lt blue & pink) from the grocery store and 240, 320, 400 & 600 grit sand paper for shaping and smoothing.
$0.02
Cheers
#12
morpheus
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Posted 26 September 2004 - 09:31 PM
12000! The texture of that finishing paper must be similar to paper you write on.
a hui hou,
a hui hou,
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#13
TFCreate
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Posted 28 September 2004 - 12:25 AM
12000 Grit is more for polishing. Jeweler's Rouge is about the same consistancy.
I seldom go higher than 1200 grit. If the surface it too smooth, ironically, the primer won't adhere.
TFC
I seldom go higher than 1200 grit. If the surface it too smooth, ironically, the primer won't adhere.
TFC
#15
TMBounty_Hunter
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Posted 08 October 2004 - 02:11 PM
wouldnt fiberglass be a bit dangerous? the chemicals that are in some of the products are harmful enough, id stay clear of the fiberglass
